Saturday, October 14, 2017

Stars and Flying Geese

Every project starts with selecting your fabrics! Want to see them in a quilt? Check out my Quilts of Valor page!


Individual Flying Geese


You begin with a rectangle and two squares. There size depends on the size of the finished flying geese, mine here are: rectangle 4 1/2" x 2", and two 2" (cut size  4-1/2 x 2 1/2) squares. (In the image below, you can see that I am chain stitching my pieces, the piece before almost abuts to the piece I am sewing.)

First, you draw a line diagonally on each of the squares, on the wrong or backside of the fabric. Place one square on the end of the rectangle with the right or front side together, and sew across the line you drew. 

If you are making more than one (and you usually are), cut out all your geese, draw lines across all your squares, and sew them all, one after the other. It saves time, and makes your job easier.

For 4 Flying Geese at a time

You begin with a square and 4 smaller squares. Start with the center fabric. Determine what size you want your finished flying geese unit and add 1 1/4". For a 4 1/2" finished flying geese unit, you add 4 1/2" + 1 1/4" = 5 3/4" which adds up to square of the center fabric. 
Now the corner or pointy fabric. Determine the finished height of your flying geese unit and add 7/8". The finished height is 2 1/4", so 2 1/4" + 7/8" = 3 1/8" squares. You will need 4 of these to complete your four flying geese units.
Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of all of four point squares. Lay two of the point squares with right sides together, on the larger center square, as shown. Note, the point squares will overlap slightly in the middle. (please disregard the imperfections of these images. I will make this pattern soon and replace these with actual images, but they will give you some idea of what you should be seeing.)
Layout pieces and sew on both sides of the line
  
Stitch 1/4" away from the marked line, through all the layers, as shown. Repeat on both sides of the marked line. Cut on the line you drew. Open out pointy pieces and press.


Cut along the line you drew
Press pointy pieces out
















Select one, it should resemble a heart shape, with the pointy fabric being the two top sections and the center piece the bottom. Add one of your remaining point squares right sides together, matching the bottom of the heart, on the center fabric. 
Add 'point' square and sew on both sides of the line.


Stitch 1/4" away from the marked line, on both sides. Cut on the line you drew, and iron with the pointy side open. You now have 2 flying geese, repeat on the second set you created and you will have 4.
Cut along the line
Press with points out, creating a bigger point with the rectangle.



Making Stars of Flying Geese


If your geese are 4 1/2" x 2 1/4" finished, your side corners will be 2 1/4" squares finished (or 2 3/4 before sewing together), and the center portion of the finished square will be will be 4 1/2" finished (5" before sewing). Using the images below, construct your star with flying geese.

Making a Hunter's Star Quilt

For this method, you only need two blocks. Half square triangles and full squares, as shown below. Watch how they go together.
Half-Square Triangles
Full Squares
Start with you 'dark' full square, 4 1/2" (finished) square and 4 2 1/4" (finished) half-square triangles. Putting your 'dark' square down first, add to the right of it, aligning with the top of the block, 2 half-square triangles with the dark fabric to the bottom and left. Below this lay the third half-square triangle below the left half-square triangle, also with the dark fabric to the bottom and left. The last half-square triangle goes into the empty space on the right, and this triangle should be flipped, so that the 'dark' fabric is in the upper right.
Now, taking your 'light' full-square, and 4 half-square triangles, laying 2 half-square triangles to the right of the full-square, one below the other, with the 'dark' fabric in the upper right. In the upper right hand corner, lay your 3rd half-square triangle next to the top half-square triangle, with the dark fabric to the upper right. The 4th half-square will lay below this one, with the dark fabric to the lower left. So essentially, you lay a full-square and 4 half-squares together, with one of those half-square triangles flipped.


As always, I suggest that you first create all your half-square triangles, and have them pressed and set next to your machine, before you begin assembling these pieces. Then move on to assembling all the pieces above. These are the only two pieces that you need to assemble for the full quilt. They go together to complete the block, like this:



Monday, September 25, 2017

Making Your Sandwich

Time...

A quilt for a crib, or baby quilt can easily take 40 hours of your time. The bigger the quilt, the more time it takes to make. I have spent 120 hours on a single quilt. That's not continuous time, that's a couple hours a night, after work and all day on the weekends. That's a month or months on a single quilt. 

Quilt in a day? Not likely. Maybe you can finish a simple quilt top in 24 hours of work. That's definitely do-able. Then you add in building the sandwich, top-stitching or quilting and binding, well, your back up to a lot of time.

Making the sandwich and preparing the quilt for quilting doesn't take a lot of time, it does take a lot of patience and pins!


Building Your Sandwich


It starts with your backing fabric. This can be a piece of cotton fabric, it can be flannel, it can be fleece, or a new sheet. It can be one solid piece, or a multi-pieced design. It's important that it's bigger than your quilt top by a couple of inches. It should be ironed, without fold lines and wrinkles.

For this quilt, I used dark blue fabric on either side of the figured fabric.
Lie this fabric on a flat surface, and smooth it until it lies completely flat. Layer on your batting fabric. This can be big, fluffy, comforter-like thick batting, flatter cotton or synthetic batting or for warm climates, it can even be a sheet. I like to have my batting just a bit bigger than my quilt top. If your backing is a fleece product, you probably won't have a batting fabric too, as the fleece is used for both products. Lay your batting flat on your backing fabric, and smooth it until it lies flat.

Fleece backed quilt
King-sized cotton batting
To the left is the King-sized quilt I made, I had to put two pieces of batting (cotton, low loft) together to make a piece big enough for this quilt. I used my bed, with a hard surface on the mattress to build my sandwich. 

On the right is an example of fleece being used as the backing fabric and the batting. It makes a very soft sided arty blanket, and is very easy to work with. You must still follow all the steps, building, turning, smoothing, turning and smoothing again when using just the top and backing. 

Next comes the quilt top you have created. It, too, needs to be wrinkle free, with no fold lines. If it's been ironed all the way through the process, it should be ready to lay flat upon the batting and backing. 

Starting in the center, begin pinning the three pieces together, putting a pin in every 6 inches or so. You will wan to use safety pins, so that you don't prick your fingers in the next task. 

Once you have pinned the entire quilt top, batting and backing together, you will want to very carefully flip the quilt over. You will probably notice places that the backing is not laying completely flat. Beginning in the center, you will start smoothing to the outside, moving pins (yep, those pins are on the other side, you will have to reach under, move and repin from underneath) as you need to, to get the back completely smooth. You will want to pay attention to the batting as well, being sure it's still laying flat. 
Back with bubbles and folds, ironing didn't take all the lines out.
After smoothing the quilt, the back looks much nicer.
These are the same backing, I know the colors look different, but they aren't. This is what this quilt back looked like when I flipped it and started smoothing, and when I was nearly finished smoothing the back out. This flipping really makes a big difference to how your quilt looks when it's finished.


When the back is completely smooth, once again, you carefully flip the quilt over so that your quilt top is up. Beginning in the center, make sure that the movement of pins didn't make bubbles in your quilt top. Adjust pins to be sure that the top is laying flat against the batting/backing. 

When it is completely smooth, you will want to add more pins, to keep everything in place as you are sewing. Adding another pin between each set of pins you have already placed wont be too many pins.

When your last pin is set, you are ready to take this sandwich to your sewing machine, and begin top-stitching, or quilting these pieces together! You will begin in the center, and will be mindful of the layers, keeping everything smooth as you quilt your quilt.

Quilting

Making Squares look like Circles


Block 1, busy!

Block 2, very simple
I have made this pattern in a king, queen and twin-sized quilts. I love that two blocks (on the right and left) create this curving, moving artistry. 

There are only 4 different squares in the 2 blocks. I used a lot of different colors, patters, fabrics in these quilts, and patterned whites and creams to help those colors pop. 

Of course, you have to get close to see the colors, because the pattern almost overwhelms the individual blocks!


Fabric Needed: 

This is to finish 9 blocks, 3 x 3. Add or subtract as your need warrants. These are exact numbers, I always add a bit, to be sure I have enough, should I need to make an additional square or two, to keep from having matching squares.
Plain fabric = 1 1/4 yd
Colored fabric= 1 1/4 yd

Cutting instructions: 

Each block finishes at 9". (You could, I suppose, add an inch to each square, design these to finish at 12". It would make for a different quilt, through very similar.) Each square finishes at 3".
4-square = 4-2" squares or 2 strips of 2-2" fabrics, cut into 2" strips, and joined
Full square = 3 1/2" squares
Half-square triangle = 3 1/2" half-square triangles
Triangle square = there are templates you could buy, or not, instructions below